Pattern Review Butterick 5646

Posted on Apr 1, 2013 | 0 comments

Believe it or not, I have been sewing while I have been chit chatting on this blog for the last few weeks!  And… outdoors soaking up the sun and working in the yard cuz spring is here and it’s time to plant!  Even mucked out the small pond and waterfall in my backyard leaving it sparkly and pretty…until next year when I have to do it again!  Here I am though, faithfully sitting here at my desk on this beautiful sunny April 1st Monday morning, writing because this is important too. No fooling!

So what have I been sewing?  Well, actually a few things, with three more projects in the makings.  Sometimes I make myself crazy! Today I am going to start by reviewing Butterick 5646 and with the next several posts McCalls 6708 and Simplicity 1797.  I am splitting them up because I think I talk to much and end up making monster posts that you may not want to sit and read!  See, here I am, yaking!

Butterick 5646                                  McCalls 6708                             Simplicity 1797

Before diving in, let me first say that each of my projects gets to go through muslin consideration.  There’s nothing worse than finding out that something doesn’t fit properly that you were dreaming of wearing when you finished sewing it.  Been there, done that!

Also, sewing for myself is sort of like dressing a triangle!  I find it a constant challenge with any pattern I choose to make, because my shoulders are a little more narrow than standard shoulders.  My bust… well I won’t complain; I am far from gifted in this area, but it could be a lot worse.  Then there’s my waist, it’s two sizes up as compared to my bust measurement; what’s with that!  Hips are hips; they are always the fullest area but the numbers just keep getting bigger.   See…  a triangle!  What has worked best for me is to cut a size 8 at the top with still a bit more adjusting, then ease this size into a 12 at the waist.  Most of the time size 12 is good for the circumference at the hip line, but sometimes I will cut out a 14 just to be sure!  I try not to pay a lot of attention to size though, just actual circumference; notice I said try.  And go figure, my store bought clothes are entirely different sizes!  We are all in this mess together so I’ll just leave it at that 🙂

Okay…so here goes:  The Butterick 5646 top

Butterick – 5646 Options

Let me start by saying that I picked this top because I like the long v-shaped back business that’s going on.  Besides looking very feminine, it’s a butt cover when I don’t want my butt seen.  (have no idea why I sometimes feel this way)  😉

The pattern is sized by XS, S, M, L, XL, and XXL

I chose size Small for several reasons.  First, the bust circumference was closest to mine.  Second, the waist and hip measurement with ease was printed on the pattern pieces, a number of inches more than I needed.  And third, I pinned all the tissue pieces  together to see what I was working with and could easily tell that it was going to be loose fitting all the way down;  so…with much contemplation, I decided there would be no muslin done and size Small it would be.  After the fact, I could have made an XS, since I almost feel like I am wearing a painting smock, but…I am not gonna fret!

I made style B because it has pockets which I thought would make the front more interesting.  Chiffon and georgette were two of the recommended fabrics which was why I chose to make it in the first place.  I love to wear things made of these light flowy fabrics, but… I thought I would do a test drive with some fabric I discovered in my stash that I bought a year or two ago to make a skirt out of, don’t know what I was thinking, anyways, decided to use it for this top.

The instructions for the most part were straight forward.  The band around the neck tripped me up at first, likely because I have not sewn a lot of tops.  You had to sew 2 bands allowing for a hidden  band where the buttons and buttonholes are to be placed.  As usual, I went off the beaten path because I wanted blingy buttons and didn’t want to hide them!  The 2 bands got to become one band for my whim.  All I did was slip stitch them together along the center edge and then top-stitched 1/4 inch  from the edge all around the entire band.

I loved sewing the french darts.  I have read that they can be a bit tricky at times.  I can see how this might be, especially with certain kinds of fabric but the finish line is so complimenting that I can’t wait to sew them in future garments.

Also, french seams were a suggestion for finished edges which is one of my favs so I did this too.  Maybe I will make this again in an XS if I can find some pretty georgette fabric.

The back…

And the front!

Salut,  Jessica

The Sweat Shop

Posted on Mar 26, 2013 | 0 comments

Photos by Fabrice Fortin for Paris by Appointment Only™  presented on a lovely web site:  http://www.parisbao.com

I know…you are reading the words, Sweat Shop, and right about now thinking – EVIL – and you are ready to hear all about it.  However – it’s not what you think.

Sweat Shop is actually a “café couture” sewing shop that opened in Paris about 2 1/2 years ago.  It was located in the residential 10th district of Canal Saint Martin, tucked away among other trendy boutiques and bars.   Its two founders, fashion designer Sissi Holleis and makeup artist Martena Duss, had a brilliant idea and set out to make it happen.  They wanted to encourage people to buy less and make more things for themselves either by sewing them or changing up things they already owned.  With the help of Singer, they took this concept and, well the rest is history.

There were 10 work stations, each supplied with a sewing machine, all located around a big central work area.  You could rent any of the available sewing machines by the hour to work on your projects or just visit and relax in their cozy little nook where sweets were available.

Whether you were a beginner or a master of sewing, there were regularly provided workshops, often held by well known designers willing to share their knowledge.  If you wanted to brush up on your English, there was the Patch-Up Your English workshop.  While creating a patchwork cushion or blanket, you had to chat strictly in English!  There were even knitting classes for those wanting to learn, or those ready to whip up a sweater.

However, I don’t know if  you noticed, but when I have been talking about Sweat Shop, it has been in the past tense.  As of July 1, 2012, Martena and Sissi closed their doors.  Awe crap was my first response.  I was so excited when I first discovered this little gem that I was plotting on how to make it one of my stops on my next visit to Paris. There is good news though; a book was born out of this project that I already personally have on order.

It was published November 15th 2011 by Andrews McMeel Publishing.  My understanding is that it is less technical and more personal, and full of ideas for being creative.  I can’t wait to get my copy.   As for Sweat Shop, well..Au revoir!

and…

Merci Madame Sissi et Madame Martena for thinking of a most exceptional way to share sewing!

Salut!  Jessica